INTRODUCTION:

Coloring skin particularly skin of face and lips is an ancient practice going back to prehistoric period. In present days the use of such product has increased and choice of shades of color, texture and luster have been changed and become wider. This can be observed from the fact that lipsticks are marked in hundreds of shades of colors to satisfy the demand of women.

The present investigation was done to formulate herbal lipstick from Beta vulgaris juice and shikakai powder, since lipsticks are one of the key cosmetics to be used by the women. Cosmetics are substances used to enhance the appearance of the human body. Cosmetics include skincare creams, lotions, powders, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail and toe nail polish, eye and facial makeup, permanent waves, colored contact lenses, hair colors, hair sprays and gels, deodorants, baby products, bath oils, bubble baths, bath salts, butters and many other types of products are in great demand in both developing and developed countries (Benett, 1983). The word herbal is a symbol of safety in contrast to the synthetic one which has adverse effects on human health. Herbal preparations viz., herbal tablets, herbal tonics, herbal paste, herbal shampoo, herbal sindur, herbal contraceptives and herbal lipstick has become popular among the consumer herbal medicines represent the fastest growing segment to heal the various ailments. Possibly, herbal user desire to assume control over health care needs. Perhaps the large in personal healthcare system is unpalatable to many and they turn to herbal medicine due to increase side effects of available synthetic preparations (Kaul et al., 2010; Dwivedi et al., 2008)

There is evidence of highly advanced ideas of self beautification and a large array of various cosmetics usage both by men and women, in ancient India. Many of these practices were subtly interwoven with the season (Sanskrit: Rutus) and the normal rituals of life (The history of the herbal cosmetic industry includes very dark chapters in European and western countries from about six centuries back. Mixtures and pastes were then used to whiten the face, a practice which remained popular till over four hundred years later Sanskrit: Dinacharya).

The use of herbal cosmetics has increased too many folds in personal care system and there is a great demand for herbal cosmetics. All this has happened due to excessive usage of synthetic products. Herbal cosmetics have an increasing demand in the world market and are invaluable gift of nature. There are wide ranges of herbals cosmetic products to satisfy beauty regime, adding herbal in cosmetic is very safe for skin.

The word herbal is a symbol of safety in contrast to a synthetic one which has adverse effects on human health. Herbal preparations have become among consumers as they represent fastest growing segment to heal various ailments. Large numbers in personal health care system turn to herbal medicine due to increase side effects of the available synthetic preparation.^9-10

MATERIALS AND METHODOLOGY:

Ingredients of herbal lipstick.

Table.1

Ingredients	Use	Source
Castor oil	Blending agent	Herbal drug store, Hyderabad
Shikakai powder	Surfactant	Herbal drug store, Hyderabad
Paraffin wax	Glossy and harness	Herbal drug store, Hyderabad
Bees wax	Glossy and hardness	Herbal drug store, Hyderabad
Beet root juice	Colouring agent	Extracted from beetroots in laboratory by standard extraction procedure.
Orange essence	Flavouring agent	Herbal drug store, Hyderabad
Lemon juice	Antioxidant	Squeezed from lemons practically.
Vanilla essence	Preservative, Q.S	Herbal drug store, Hyderabad

Formulation Table of Lipstick containing Herbal Ingredients:

TABLE. 2

S. No	Ingredients	Use	F1	F2	F3	F4	F5	F6
1	Castor oil	Blending agent	8 ml	10 ml	5 ml	7 ml	9 ml	7 ml
2	Paraffin wax	Glossy and hardness	12 gm	12 gm	9 gm	8 gm	5 gm	11 gm
3	Bees wax	Glossy and hardness	13 gm	7 gm	10 gm	6 gm	11 gm	9 gm
4	Beet root Juice	Colouring agent	10 ml	12 ml	17 ml	24 ml	22 ml	20 ml
5	Ripe fruit powder of Shikakai	Surfactant	6 gm	7.75 gm	3 gm	2 gm	2 gm	2 gm
6	Lemon juice	Antioxidant	0.5 ml	0.5 ml	1 ml	2 ml	1.5 ml	0.75 ml
7	Orange, essence	Flavouring agent	0.5 ml	0.75 ml	0.5 ml	1ml	0.5 ml	0.5 ml
8.	Vanilla essence	Preservative, Q. S	q. s	q. s	q. s	q. s	q. s	q. s

Method of Preparation:

Required quantities of Shikakai powder, bees wax were weighed separately along with castor oil and finely triturated. Weigh the required quantities of amount of bees wax and paraffin wax heat it on a china dish till it becomes a hot liquid. Now add the second preparation to the first preparation slowly. To this add required quantity of lemon juice and heat properly. Add orange essence and vanilla essence Pass this preparation through the lipstick moulds and cool them by keeping in ice for about 30min. Remove and store the obtained lipstick in refrigerator.

Fig: 1- F1 Formulation

Fig: 2- F2 Formulation

Fig: 3- F3 Formulation

Fig: 4- F4 Formulation

Fig: 5- F5 Formulation

Fig: 6- F6 Formulation

Evaluation of Herbal Lipsticks:

The prepared herbal lipstick were evaluated with the following parameters

1. Organoleptic properties:

The prepared herbal lipsticks were evaluated for organoleptic properties such as colour odour and texture.

2. Melting point:

This test is done to know about the limit of safe storage. determination of melting point was done by taking a melted lipstick sample and filled it into a glass capillary tube. the capillary tube is then subjected to cooling in ice for about 2 hrs and is then tied to a thermometer. This assembly was then dipped into a beaker containing water which was subjected to continuous stirring. a temperature at which the material starts moving along the capillary tube is considered as melting point.

3. Determination of p^H:

The pH of the formulated lipstick was analyzed by using PH meter.

4. Breaking point:

This test is performed to determine the strength of the lipstick. the lipstick is placed in a horizontal position in a socket away from the edge of the support. the lipstick was then subjected to number of weights hanging from the support .This weights were gradually increased at time interval of 15secs and the weights at which the lipstick breaks is considered as the breaking point.

5. Force of application:

This test is performed to get at a comparative measurement of the force to be applied in this test, a piece of coarse brown paper is kept on a shadow graph balance and the lipstick is applied at 45⁰angle to cover 1 sq. inch area till it is fully covered. The pressure reading gives an indication of force of application.

6. Skin irritation:

The herbal lipsticks of all the formulations (F1-F6) were evaluated for skin irritation test by applying the product on the skin for about 15min.

7. Perfume stability:

These studies were conducted on all the six (F1-F6) formulations of herbal lipstick to record the fragrance.

8. Thixotrophy character:

This test is performed to check the depth of penetration by using penetrometer. Here, a standard needle of specifies diameter is allowed to penetrate into the lipstick for 5sec under certain load. The depth of the penetration of the needle is a measure of thixotrophic character of the herbal lipstick.

9. Softening point (Ring and ball method)²¹:

It is the temperature at which the mass of the lipstick and the steel ball gets loosened and feel into the bottom of the breaker. An aluminum ring was taken and the lipstick sample was fitted into it. The extra mass of the lipstick was removed by using a sharp blade to get an intact amount of the lipstick into the ring. This was then placed in the refrigerator for 10min at the temperature of 10⁰c.Thereafter, the lipstick was tied to a stand and steel ball was placed on the above assembly. This assembly was then dipped into a beaker containing water which was subjected to heating with continuous stirring. The temperature was recorded by using a thermometer.

10. Surface abnormalities:

These studies were conducted on all the six (F1-F6) formulations of herbal lipstick to detect the presence of crystals on the surfaces of the prepared herbal lipsticks.

RESULTS:

The prepared formulation (Table 2) was evaluated (Table 3) and it was found that the, F-5 (Fig. 5) was best among the six formulations. Hence, from present investigation it was concluded that this formulated herbal lipsticks has better option to women with minimal side effects. Also furthermore formulations can be formulated and evaluated along with detailed clinical trails for every formulation.

Table: 3

Evaluation parameters	Inference
Evaluation parameters	F1	F2	F3	F4	F5	F6
Colour	Light yellowish red colour	Light yellowish red colour	Reddish colour	Reddish colour	Reddish colour	Reddish colour
Odour	Aromatic	Aromatic	Aromatic	Aromatic	Aromatic	Aromatic
Texture	Smooth	Smooth	Smooth	Smooth	Smooth	Smooth
Melting point	54 - 55	53 - 54	61 - 62	59 - 60	62 - 63	63 - 64
Determination of pH	6.4 ± 0.3	6.9 ± 0.2	6.7 ± 0.1	6.8 ± 0.2	6.5 ± 0.3	6.3 ± 0.2
Breaking point	23	24	23	24	26	24
Force of application	Poor	Easy	Good	Easy	Good	Good
Skin irritation	No irritation	No irritation	No irritation	No irritation	No irritation	No irritation
Perfume stability	+++	++	+	+++	++	++
Thixotrophy character	8.5	9.3	8.9	7.9	8.3	8.6
Softening point	55 - 56	58	56 - 57	57	54 - 56	53 - 55
Surface anamolies	No defect	No defect	No defect	No defect	No defect	No defect

DISCUSSION:

Cosmetics with natural ingredients are believed to be safer than chemical-based cosmetics; in addition, natural cosmetics have the ability to protect the skin from Ultra Violet rays^[1,2]. One of the widely used cosmetics now days are lip color in the form of crayon or better known as lipstick^[3] which can also serve as both natural and chemical.

The development of natural cosmetic ingredients must be accompanied by efforts to improve the quality of raw materials used in the extracts. Due to the many variables that influence the amount and content of active ingredients in a plant, raw materials are not guaranteed to have homogeneous active constituents qualitatively and quantitatively. Therefore, standardization of raw material extracts of natural sources is demanded from researchers in the field of herbal cosmetics^[2].

Cosmetic products, especially lipsticks as they are applied to the lips of a sensitive nature, need to pass an irritation test^[3,6,7]. This should apply to beetroots as well because although numerous studies found that beetroots are safe^[8], a safety test is still required to ensure the possibility of an allergic response that can appear on the skin, including the lips^[9].

Therefore, this research aimed to formulate and evaluate herbal lipsticks made from the standardized carotenoid extract of beetroots (Beta vulgaris) with castor oil base variations completed with an irritation test.

The present study formulation and evaluation of lipstick containing herbal ingredients was aimed to manufacture a lipstick containing herbal ingredients to minimize the side effects over the synthetic ones.

The formulation table containing all formulations (F1–F6) was prepared and evaluation studies were performed on the prepared lipstick containing herbalingredients. All the six formulations (F1–F6) showed promising and challenging results.

The organoleptic studies displayed the colour of the lipstick along with the odour. The results can be seen in the table 4.

The composition of herbal lipstick consisting of Ripe Shikakai powder, Castor oil, Paraffin wax, Bees wax, Beet root juice, Orange essence, Lemon juice, Vanilla essence, offers a suitable practical approach to achieve a better formulation as lipstick containing herbal ingredients.

In the present work, containing herbal ingredients was prepared successfully according to the given formulations.

The following are the conclusions drawn for the performed thesis

· Lipstick containing herbal ingredients was successfully formulated by using six different formulations (F1 – F6)

· Among all the six formulations, F5 formulations exhibited good results.

· F5 formulation lipstick containing herbal ingredients was found to be in compliance with all the evalution tests.

Likewise even all the other formulations also exhibited satisfactory results, but when compared with all the formulations F5 formulation exhibited good results regarding all the aspects.

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Received on 06.07.2019 Modified on 25.07.2019

Res. J. Pharmacognosy and Phytochem. 2019; 11(3):197-201.

DOI: 10.5958/0975-4385.2019.00034.7